Cue “Suddenly I See” by KT Tunstall, it’s me deciding to speak on fashion and clothes. After binge-watching Vogue documentaries and all aspects of the Sex and the City universe this past month, and buying one pair of vintage Manolos and one fake Prada bag, I have deemed myself qualified to speak on this topic. Below, I will be detailing fabulous moments in fashion that I adore.
An Ode to Carrie
I couldn’t start this without an homage to Miss Bradshaw. She had some fabulous looks, see above for my favorites, and some truly terrible looks, but all in all was a freelance writer at Vogue with 40,000 pairs of designer clothes and a studio apartment on the Upper West Side getting paid $4.50 a word. So really, she’s to be admired.
From iconic dresses like the John Galliano for Christian Dior newspaper dress from 2001, and the white, bias cut slip she wears when saying what we believe to be her final goodbyes with Mr. Big at his engagement brunch at the Plaza Hotel. The white slip, to me is another great example of the trend towards quantity rather than quality. For example, this specific dress was cut what’s called on the bias. It took longer but is more chic and flattering. Modernly, now the off-the-bias cut is popularized - it’s what makes dresses like hers above fit girls now awkwardly around the stomach and waist area, especially with silk draping. Most now prefer off the bias cut because it’s seen as a sign of youthfulness. Essentially, better quality and quality-made clothing is seen as old-fashioned, because bad habits are trailing down the trend cycle and are seen as popular. Please see this thread on Twitter if you’re interested, as Miss Cora Harrington explains it better than I. I digress, as now I feel I’ve gotten off-topic. But it’s an important thing to note when looking at fashion.
Icons From History
I think it would be pointless to discuss these pieces at length, mostly because so many have before, and it’s just like. What can I say? Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the revenge dress, the dress that started Google Images, Queen Blake reigning over her subjects of the Met Gala, Marilyn. Christy Turlington in 1993 Ralph Lauren, Shalom Harlow in 1995 Versace. Hedy Lamarr in the Ziegfeld Follies. All of these ladies were striking out and doing something different and became icons within the industry. They’ve become literal turning points within fashion, where boundaries were crossed to be ignored from then on. Just take Christy Turlington and Shalom Harlow, the faces of the zeitgeist of 80s supermodels that completely altered runway shows. Literally, the faces because never before were models even considered in a show. Anna Wintour took over VOGUE in 1988 and subsequently started putting celebrities on the cover - thus, celebrity and supermodel culture became what they are now.
Gigi x Versace
I’m not one to revel in celebrities or those whom I believe are within the Kardashian-Jenner sphere, as I consider the Hadid sisters to be, but I absolutely adore Gigi’s look from the 2018 Met Gala. I believe Heavenly Bodies was one of the best moments of fashion within the 21st century. The gowns, specifically this one by Versace, were just absolutely stunning. I can’t decide whether this one is more inspired by a butterfly wing or a stained-glass window. The pale blue and gold, transcending to the dark navy suits her skin tone and natural features incredibly well. Donatella Versace was one of the cohosts of the Gala that year, and handpicked the design along with Hadid for the carpet. The shimmery asymmetry of the dress, combined with subtle glowing makeup is one of her best looks.
Elie Saab
I find myself really entranced by this collection - Spring 2003 - entirely, mostly because of how much their dresses were, at least for me, casually on mood boards and Tumblr photos in the 2000s. Elie Saab first came to fame after Halle Berry wore one of his gowns to receive Best Actress. The beading patterns particularly on this dress remind me of the beach, of a mermaid, a lagoon. Truly beautiful. If I was rich, and eloping, I would buy this dress and get married on a beach in it. It’s close enough to white, I think. The pieces I’m drawn to on runways are so laughingly different than the things I actually wear in real life (black, black…. oh look some dark green, and more black). But look how PRETTY it is. I cannot get over it.
John Galliano for Christian Dior, 1998 Spring
When looking at this collection, I couldn’t decide which piece I wanted to include, and they’re really so different, down to the cut of the fabric, so I added both. This collection is revered for inspiring romance, and Galliano was particularly praised for seeing beauty in each of the models by choosing dresses for them rather than putting anyone in anything. This was at the Palace Garnier in France. And I love France. If I were to wear a hat in my daily life, I think it would have to be one of these two. Simple and understated, or over the top and dedicated.
I really like how the train for each piece can be a continuation of the silhouette, in hand or on the floor. It’s those small thoughts of humanity when creating couture that I believe truly alter the brand’s perception. Like that awful Diesel skirt that was like, a band of rubber. It was couture but people bought it to make fun of it and couldn’t sit in it. Then again, fashion doesn’t really make sense to anyone.
She Is The Moment.
Relatively unknown woman making her red carpet debut on the Met Gala steps, and stealing the show from seasoned celebrities? This is what couture is all about, and Mona Patel absolutely demolished it earlier this year for the Met Gala. She was possibly one of the most talked about attendees because of how beautifully styled this piece was, with the intricate neckline and arm banding creating a stunning silhouette of something I can only describe as alive.
She took to the carpet in custom Iris Van Herpen styled by none other than Law Roach. I feel like she’s the only Rutgers grad to take to the red carpet, however, I could be wrong. But I was so shocked by her alma mater that I had to include it. She’s a millionaire and philanthropist and secured a ticket through one of her nonprofits, Couture for Cause. Vogue India describes this as “a non-profit that combines her love for fashion and her philanthropic pursuits together to support meaningful causes.” What does this mean, you ask? Auctioning off vintage and personalized couture, most of which comes from HER OWN CLOSET. I want to be Miss Patel.
Obviously, fashion is an industry that’s highly debated. It’s forever changing, and can be highly elitest, ageist, racist and fatphobic (note that I did not include any Karl Lagerfeld here. I am a Karl Lagerfeld hater. See here). I like to hope that up and coming generations of fashion editors and creative directors will change the industry to be more inclusive. At the end of the day, it’s never going to be the end all be all of things because they are just clothes. But I’m just a girl. I can separate fashion. Yes, it’s not as important as like world conflicts, but that does not mean it’s silly. It’s a billion dollar business that has more impact on the world trends and social or political commentary than we think.